Origins of Swaine
Swaine's journey began as makers of driving, riding, and hunting whips, eventually earning the distinction of being whip makers to the royal family. Our guiding principle, articulated by Edward Swaine Adeney Jr. in 1927, remains steadfast: "This, then, is the formula: honest material and the finest craftsmanship that can be put into the moulding of it."
With a legacy spanning over 250 years, Swaine has been known by various names and has been passed down through numerous generations. Delve into the rich heritage of Swaine, beginning in 1760.
1760-1798
John Ross, Royal Whip Maker
Around 1760, John Ross, a renowned whip manufacturer, laid the foundation for what would later become Swaine. His esteemed clientele, which included notable figures like Prince Henry Frederick, Duke of Cumberland, and George Wyndham, 3rd Earl of Egremont, showcased his influence in the horse racing community. By March 1770, he proudly bore the title of 'Whipmaker to the Royal Family'.
During John Ross's era, the company solely focused on whip production, with no indication of diversifying into walking sticks until the mid-19th century. This highlights the significant dominance of the whip market before the advent of railways.
In 1798, John Ross handed over the reins to a whip-maker by the name James Swaine and James father-in-law Benjamin Slocock. Under their stewardship, the business transformed into 'Swaine and Co., Whip Makers to His Majesty', emphasising variety, contemporary fashion, and technological innovations.
1798-1825
Swaine & Co
Before assuming control of John Ross's business, James Swaine apprenticed at the whip-maker Benjamin Griffith & Co. starting in June 1728 on his sixteenth birthday. Following this, James Swaine married Ann, who was a relative of Benjamin Slocock, who financially supported James to buy out John Ross.
James Swaine continued the tradition of royal association, and the endorsement of the Prince Regent and his fashion-forward associates propelled Swaine & Co. into prominence.
The account book of Swaine & Co. proudly displays their letterhead as whip makers to His Majesty George III. Their esteemed clientele included George III’s consort, Queen Charlotte, and four of his sons: the Prince Regent, the future George IV; Ernest Augustus I, King of Hanover; and the Duke of Cambridge, Prince Adolphus.
During this period, the complexity of whip-making necessitated mechanisation in the industry, particularly in the braiding of whip stocks and the wrapping of threads around them.
1825-1848
Swaine & Isaac
Following Benjamin Slocock's retirement in 1825, James Swaine invited William Isaac to become his partner. However, it wasn't until 1835 that the company name Swaine & Isaac became routinely used.
After the passing of George IV in 1830, Swaine & Isaac was reappointed as royal whip-makers by his brother, William IV, the former Duke of Clarence. In 1837, Swaine & Isaac maintained an elite reputation as whip-makers to the new queen, Victoria, securing the queen’s patronage, which was a significant achievement.
Upon James Swaine’s retirement, he passed his share of the business to his son Edward, who had been working alongside his father since the age of thirteen.
1849-1910
Swaine & Adeney
In 1842, three years before William Isaac's resignation, Edward Swaine welcomed his son-in-law, James Adeney, into partnership thus forming Swaine, Isaac & Adeney for a brief period. From 1848 to 1934, the enterprise operated under the name Swaine & Adeney for nearly a century, eventually passing down to James Adeney's sons.
Under Edward Swaine and James Adeney's leadership, the company expanded its reach with a worldwide clientele. They even earned a prize medal in the leather selection at an exhibition for their assortment of whips and canes, showcasing superior craftsmanship.
Even as late as 1893, Swaine & Adeney remained primarily focused on whip-making, with whips being the core of their business. However, with the advent of the motor car, they adapted their leather working skills to craft luggage sets for this emerging leisure activity.
As the demand for coaching whips declined due to railways, Swaine & Adeney shifted their focus to bespoke pieces for hunting and horse racing enthusiasts.
Following Edward Swaine's death in 1862, James Adeney was joined by Edward Swaine’s sons, Edward Swaine Adeney and James William Adeney. Eventually, James Adeney’s grandson, Edward Swaine Adeney Jr, took over the business.
1910-1943
Swaine & Adeney Ltd
In July 1910, Swaine & Adeney officially registered as a limited company at Somerset House. Edward Swaine Adeney Jr, deeply committed to upholding the company's fine craftsmanship traditions, also had his sights set on the future, consistently innovating with new product lines and enhancing existing ones.
Recognising the declining whip market, Swaine & Adeney sought to fortify their position in quality whip production while diversifying into new product categories. They expanded their motor luggage line to include handbags and document cases, and in the 1920s, they introduced handmade leather gloves, earning a royal warrant as glove makers to George V.
Edward highlighted the company's dedication to fulfilling customers' specific preferences, offering made-to-order or bespoke pieces tailored to individual tastes.
In a strategic move, Swaine & Adeney acquired their largest rivals, Zair, at the outset of 1927. While catering to a distinct market, this acquisition allowed Edward to consolidate a larger market share. Concurrently, Edward emphasised craftsmanship over mechanisation, emphasising that he embraced progress but valued traditional handiwork.
With the outbreak of WWII in 1939, Swaine & Adeney faced new challenges. They swiftly pivoted to retailing military kit, similar to their response during the previous war. However, the nature of warfare had changed significantly, with horses no longer playing a role in modern combat.
Swaine & Adeney struggles mirrored those of their neighbours, Thomas Brigg & Sons, umbrella makers located just around the corner at 23 St James’s Street. In addition to contending with market challenges, Brigg & Sons had also lost their flagship showroom in Paris, compounding their difficulties.
1943-1990
Swaine, Adeney, Brigg & Sons
In February 1943, Swaine & Adeney Ltd acquired Thomas Brigg & Sons, leading to the establishment of Swaine, Adeney, Brigg & Sons Ltd. Edward Swaine Adeney Jr, appointed chairman for life, joined forces with his son Gilbert Lattimer Adeney and Bertie Walter Brigg as directors. Gilbert, Edward Jr's sole heir, assumed leadership in 1950 amidst a markedly different economic and social landscape than his father's era. Facing shortages in supplies and evolving customer preferences, he became the 8th generation of the family to helm the company since its inception by John Ross.
In response to shifting trends, Swaine Adeney Brigg & Sons redirected their focus towards luggage ranges characterised by sleek, modern designs while upholding Edward's dedication to craftsmanship and durability. This transition laid the foundation for the Swaine we recognise today.
Upon Gilbert's retirement in 1965, the reins passed to his son Robert Adeney. He encountered challenges regarding Zair’s factory lease and Brigg's former manufacturing site, the latter earmarked for compulsory purchase to make way for the Barbican Estate, an enduring architectural landmark.
Robert consolidated the company's operations at a single freehold site in Essex, inaugurated in 1968. Alongside traditional offerings like whips, sticks, umbrellas, and luggage, Swaine Adeney Brigg & Sons expanded into saddles and bridles.
In a bid to penetrate the US market, Robert initiated expansion efforts, but encountered setbacks that prompted a reevaluation of priorities. The company refocused on its core strengths in manufacturing top-quality leather goods, umbrellas, and equestrian accessories. In the early 1990s, Robert and the remaining Adeney and Brigg family shareholders divested their 80% stake in the company.