Origins of Herbert Johnson
Introduction
In 1996, Swaine Adeney Brigg acquired Herbert Johnson of New Bond Street, a venerable hatter with roots dating back to 1889. Herbert Johnson seamlessly integrated into Swaine's lineage, boasting a shared legacy steeped in military service, artisanal craftsmanship and British heritage.
Herbert’s Lore
Herbert Lewis Johnson, the founder of Herbert Johnson, was born in 1856. It's believed that his early experiences influenced his decision to pursue a career in hat-making.
Legend has it that Herbert once witnessed a mishap where the Prince hat was blown away. Herbert skilfully retrieved and repaired the hat, leaving a lasting impression on the prince. Encouraged by the prince's admiration, Herbert was urged to establish his own hat shop with the promise of support. While it's unclear if this incident directly inspired Herbert's career path or if he already harboured independent plans, the story holds significance, especially considering the Prince's patronage.
45 New Bond Street
After his father's passing in 1889, Herbert Johnson inherited £500, which he likely used to establish his hat shop at 45 New Bond Street that same year. Herbert's newly opened store boasted several departments, offering a diverse range of hat styles and accessories, including:
- Gentlemen’s Velvet Napped and Silk Hats
- Gentlemen's Hunting Hats, equipped with safety pads
- Velvet Hunting Caps for outdoor pursuits
- Crush Hats suitable for opera and theatre occasions
- Felt Hats
- Tweed Shooting hats
- Fishing Caps
- Trendy Tweed Caps
- Silk and Tweed Club Caps
- Silk and Felt hats
- Ladies Silk and Felt Riding Hats
- Clerical Hats for religious attire
- Livery Hats for formal occasions
- Hat Cases for travel
Herbert Johnson Royal Warrant
Similar to Swaine and Brigg's beginnings, Herbert Johnson also received a royal warrant of appointment. In 1901, upon Edward VII's accession to the throne, Herbert Johnson was honoured with a warrant of appointment as Hatter to The King Edward VII.
Herbert Johnson's Ties to the Military
During World War I, the demand for military hats surged at Herbert Johnson's shop. The expansion of the armed forces, coupled with the changing dynamics of warfare, necessitated diverse headwear options.
Responding to the needs of army officers seeking practical and comfortable headgear for field operations, Herbert introduced a soft-topped cap featuring a "floating bevel" design, replacing the rigid-edged structure of previous caps. This innovative field cap later influenced the dress caps of numerous regiments. Additionally, in the confined spaces of armoured tanks, the traditional peaked khaki cap proved cumbersome and impractical.
Post-war, Herbert collaborated with General Sir Hugh Ellis of the Royal Tank Corps to develop a dress cap resembling a beret, crafted from black Astrakhan wool and adorned with a feather hackle. Today, Herbert Johnson remains a prominent supplier of military headwear, serving as the official hatter to nearly ninety percent of British Army regiments, alongside units in the Royal Navy, Royal Marines, and Royal Air Force.
Herbert Johnson Motor Helmets
During the 1920s and 30s, Herbert Johnson embarked on innovative product lines that mirrored the growing influence of automobiles, much like Swaine & Adeney contemporaneous developments. A notable milestone was Herbert Johnson's creation of the first crash helmets for motor sports.
Employing gossamer-body technology, they crafted sturdy yet lightweight helmets designed to snugly encase the temples while sitting elevated on the head, ensuring a cushion of air between the head and the hat shell. The helmet's core was lined with cork and could be customised with various colours, along with optional accessories such as a canvas neck protector, leather chin strap and peak, and a celluloid wrap-around visor. Despite their undeniable style, these helmets were a luxury item, commanding a high price.
In the late 1950s, Herbert Johnson adapted to new safety standards mandated by the Royal Automobile Club and the British Standards Institution by introducing fibreglass helmets to their product lineup.
Icons of Cinema
The expansion of Herbert Johnson's influence in the 1960s and 70s can largely be credited to Timothy Glazier (1934-2009), the son of Geoffrey Glazier. As the third generation of the Glazier family in the business, Timothy brought a fresh perspective to hat design and marketing following his father's passing in 1950. He also played a pivotal role in broadening the company's range into the realm of costuming for both small and big screens.
One of the earliest cinematic appearances of a Herbert Johnson hat was Inspector Clouseau's trilby in "A Shot in the Dark" (1964), the second film in Blake Edwards' Pink Panther series. Initially crafted from felt, the hat transitioned to a tweed version, becoming inseparable from Peter Sellers' portrayal of the bumbling Inspector. Sellers himself referred to it as his "lucky hat." In "White Hunter, Black Heart" (1990), Clint Eastwood sported a high-crowned cotton twill trilby, while Jack Nicholson donned a purple felt fedora as the Joker in "Batman" (1989). However, the most iconic exposure for the company came with the first three instalments of Steven Spielberg's "Indiana Jones" series, starring Harrison Ford.
In "The Avengers", Patrick Macnee's character, Steed, not only wielded a Brigg umbrella but also donned a Herbert Johnson bowler hat, which served as a concealed weapon. Similarly, in "Dad's Army", Arthur Lowe's Captain Mainwaring wore a Herbert Johnson floating bevel peaked khaki cap, while in the 1970s, Benny Hill's comedic characters adorned Herbert Johnson tweed flat caps and felt trilbies on the small screen.
Herbert Johnson Acquisition
In 1984, Robin Benson assumed the role of managing director, initiating an expansion strategy aimed at leveraging the prestige associated with the Herbert Johnson brand. Under Benson’s leadership, the company introduced a branded line of outerwear and expanded its offerings to include ties, socks, and leather accessories.
In June 1987, the John Crowther Group, a textiles conglomerate, acquired Herbert Johnson. Subsequently, in the summer of 1988, Coloroll, a home products group, acquired the parent company Crowther. Several transactions involving additional buyers and sellers followed.
In 1996, Swaine Adeney Brigg acquired the company, resulting in shared manufacturing and retail facilities. This move marked a return to Herbert Johnson's original trading identity, focusing on smart dress hats for gentlemen, sporting and hunting hats for both men and women, as well as hats for military and other uniformed professions.
This alignment with Swaine Adeney Brigg's approach, particularly regarding female customers, was evident. Swaine Adeney Brigg had a long history of providing accessories for women engaged in various activities, from riding to brokering City deals.
Today, Herbert Johnson continues to prioritise stylish functionality for both men and women.
