The history of this top hat is rooted in both defiance and tradition. During the years between 1850 and 1950 there was widespread social unrest across Europe. In such times, the traditional symbols of status, like the black silk top hat, fell out of favour, as the notion of loudly announcing oneself as a ‘capitalist’ lost its appeal, and gentlemen began to shy away from wearing such a recognised symbol of wealth and distinction.
The first real reason for pomp and ceremony came with the coronation of Queen Elizabeth II, and Ascot 1953 marked the first time in many years that gentlemen had a reason to wear top hats again, but this time, it would be different. Prince Philip, ever the forward-thinker, chose to make a statement at this grand occasion. Defying tradition, he commissioned a top hat made of English wool, not the customary French silk, in a deliberate act of support for British industry in a post-war economy.
The muted grey hue of the hat sought not to steal attention but instead allowed the Queen to remain the focal point of the event, as befitting her station. The hat also features a slightly lower crown, 5.5 inches, traditionally worn by uniformed staff in service to the elite. Prince Philip’s choice to wear this height was a symbolic acknowledgement of his role in service to the crown.
The grey felt top hat was a quiet but bold act of defiance against high society’s rigid customs, signaling a shift toward a new era where tradition could be respected, but not blindly followed.